After some careful bending of the tube, I was able to get the panels to close. For me, the right upper radiator hose connection stuck too far 'outward', and conflicted with the lower. The outer lowers took a bit more wrangling to get an actual 'closure' then more wrangling to get a good fit. Behind the fairing seems to be the only/best place to go The EBR guys have a trick bottle set-up for both water and fuel OF that's cheap and easy to fabricate, but I was pressed for time and picked up an off the shelf model for too much money, and had to fabricate the bracket anyway. Views of left inner - right side same, except just one hose penetration.Ĭlear hose goes to a remote overflow container. The left may or may not need another penetration to allow for the radiator overflow tube. View of left side:īoth left and right inners will need to be modified (drill a hole through the inner to allow the tube to pass through - I used a rubber grommet to protect the inner and the tube, as well as to attempt to provide a better seal for air flow) to accommodate the balancing tube that connects the two radiators. I used some windshield washer hose, split lengthwise to cover the inner rib and protect the rad/provide a little cushioning. I sanded the ductwork at the juncture of the lower part of the radiator to get better seal, getting rid of low and high points. You can see the location of the ribs on the top left and top right, respectively, of the photos above between the top radiator hose and the rad. The ribs on the inners dictate where the rads go, so you just adjust hose connections to radiator to suit. The radiators do not have any fixed mounts. They mount directly to the K-brackets - you really can't screw this up. The two lower inners are pretty straightforward. Duggram, Rob, and JDugger's methods may differ, so no warranty, guarantee, or promises. (Message edited by Stirz007 on August 17, 2012) I'll post up photos of ram-air mounting tonight if I remember. (Other than it would have been better had I stayed upright) Here's the results of a low-side with non-ram Flexiglass - no problem. The Ram-air, once you figure it out, mounts pretty solid, too. I dunno about that - I've run both non-ram and ram air Flexiglass - There's a couple of entire threads on here describing how to mount the non-ram lowers, which is pretty consistent with the way the stock pods mount (I used stock hardware). the Airtech is a solid piece up to the fairing stay. You bolt/screw them to the plastic undernieth. My issue with Flexiglass as opposed to Airtech is there is no solid tie in to the bike structure on the pod covers. Ram-air Gen 1 or 2, you make a bracket out of 1" x 1/8" aluminum bar stock and mount it to the hole near the upper motor mount, angled toward the water pump. Non-ram air, keep it where it is (you'll need to re-use stock ductwork) Ads by Motorcycle Insurance Motorcycle Parts Motorcycle Helmets Motorcycle Tires Buell MotorcyclesĪnyone running Flexiglass race fairings on 1125R?
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